There are moments in the entertainment industry when certain practices are called into question, and there seem to be issues with licensing. Cruella The inspired fashion range has turned a hornet’s nest when it comes to the rights of film and TV costume designers. While some costume designs become so iconic that they become instantly recognizable, the financial compensation or off-screen revenue that can be generated by the designers behind them is usually non-existent. Now many costumers and the Costume Designers Guild have publicly denounced the “unfair” practice and don’t care if it jeopardizes their own careers.
jenny bevan, the Oscar-winning designer behind Something CruellaThe astonishing outfits in the new Disney film were recently found unaware that a whole line of clothing based on their original creations had been designed, licensed and released. The first time she heard of the line was when a friend forwarded her an Instagram post by the Rag & Bone brand advertising their “new, officially licensed” line. Cruella inspired collection.” Although the 70-year-old could miss a few brief discussions about the possibility of working with Disney on co-branded items, the end of film production and the arrival of the Covid 19 pandemic meant that the designer turned to Disney and Didn’t hear anything
Speaking to Variety, she said, “I was just kind of intimidated. Talk about Cruella It’s that you have a movie about two fashion designers about fashion. The whole story is that they are almost at war using fashion. So, bringing up fashion lines is very disrespectful.”
This is not the first time such issues have come to the fore recently, and it appears to have been an untold aspect of working in the industry for many years. In early 2020, a clothing line by Her Universe pulled its designs almost directly from Erin Bench, producing costumes for Harley Quinn and her fellow ladies. birds of prey Movies. A full 25 years before that, the iconic outfits worn by Alicia Silverstone’s Cher no news The doll categories were used without consultation with Mona May, who defined the look of the character’s wardrobe.
The extent of the problem was emphasized by Anna Wyckoff, communications director for the Costume Designers Guild, who said, “Historically, this has been a huge issue for our membership and for all costume designers. Because, as everyone knows, a Costumes have a long life. Projects – in merchandising and toys and Halloween costumes. So there are many opportunities for apparel to be used in accessory marketing fashion.”
CDG President and Designer Salvador Perez Jr. said, “As costume designers, our work has a life beyond the screen. Our work is reproduced for toys, costumes, fashion collections and more. Not only We are not allowed to participate in the profits made. In merchandising, we are not even given credit for our work on the original designs.”
There are some exceptions to the rule, of course, like Eric Damon working with retailer Miss Selfridge. gossip Girl range based on his creations from the show, and Jenny Bryant is collaborating with Banana Republic on a license crazy man collection, but it is a long way from being standard practice in the industry. Perez Jr summed it up with an additional comment. “producer, director, composer, actor and even before” [assistant directors] Receive a percentage of the profits from their work,” he said. “Costume designers who help generate additional revenue from productions should be compensated for the additional income earned.”
Cruella Currently playing in theaters nationwide, and is also available on Disney+ Premier Access for a limited time.
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